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Posts Tagged ‘Food’

Tea time

First thing that I do every morning when I walk into the kitchen is fill and turn on the kettle (mine’s bright-red and whistle-y). Actually, ‘walk through the kitchen, turn on the kettle’ is now an instinct. Sometimes I’ll be pottering around the house, then suddenly hear a long whistle in the kitchen because I had turned the kettle on without realizing it. (Uh, sorry, fire safety)

I blame Russia for this (not the hazardous absentmindedness, but the prodigious tea drinking).

According to a 2005 study cited on Wiki (what, it’s totally a legit source), 82% of Russians consume tea daily. I think they’re low-balling it. Any time we went to a Russian’s house, either here or back in the Motherland, tea was always offered, insisted on, and pretty much expected. In the morning, you drink tea. If a friend comes over to chat, you drink tea. After every meal, especially the large, celebratory affairs that would last a few hours, you drink tea.

When my dad and I go cross-country skiing (or hiking, or skating, or anywhere outdoorsy for a prolonged period of time), he doesn’t leave the house without a thermos full of strong, sweet tea.

My favourite was the tea on Russian trains, because it was usually served in glass mugs in подстаканники (podstakanniki, meaning “thing under the glass”, elaborate metal holders). Every summer we’d go visit our relatives in Ukraine, which was a two-day train ride, and what I looked forward the most to was drinking tea from those glass mugs, delivered to you by the train conductor (complimentary!). There’s just something so sophisticated yet rustic about sitting in your rocking compartment, watching the birches swish past the window to the clicketty-clack-clicketty-clack of the wheels, all while drinking tea out of a glass in an ornate metal holder.

The main thing that is very different from North America is the tea brewing process itself. This is one of those habits that I took for universal until my friends in Canada responded with a “what in the world are you doing to our tea, woman” when I first tried to make them a pot.

Russians use a ‘two-step’ brewing process. A lot of loose tea or several teabags are put into a teapot, and are steeped in boiling water for a long while – about ten minutes. This produces a very strong tea concentrate, called заварка (zavarka). Заварка is what makes tea Russian… the origin of the tea leaves doesn’t really matter, nor what utensils are used in the tea-making process. If you make заварка, you’re basically making Russian tea.

Заварка is then served to the table along with a pot of boiling water. Each person pours some of the concentrate into their cup, then dilutes it with the water (that way everyone can make their tea as strong or weak as they want).

Note to the wise: don’t drink заварка on its own. Apparently, it can cause intense heartbeat, hallucinations, headaches and restlessness (once again, thanks Wiki). A variant of it, called чифирь (chifir’) is used in Russian prisons as a substitute to drugs and alcohol. Drink enough of very strong заварка and you could be in for a heart attack… DEATH BY TEA.

Admittedly, Russian tea drinking has shout-outs to give to various cultures.  Tea drinking came about thanks to China (thanks, China!). The Chinese ambassador to Moscow made a gift of several chests of tea to Tsar Aleksey Mikhaylovich in the mid-1600s. During this period, Russia was attempting to establish trade with China and tea soon became one of the most desired imports. The samovar and the glass-holders were inspired by similar Turkish implements (thanks, Turkey!).

Oh, and, Russian language note! Tea in Russian is чай (chai). So, chai tea sounds like “tea tea” to me. I wonder if we got the word chai courtesy of India? Nevermind, according to the Etymology of tea, it’s thanks to the Chinese (again).

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Ramptacular!

I BOUGHT RAMPS (a.k.a. wild leeks).

Went to the St. Lawrence Market this morning, and, there they were in small bunches, all delicate and leafy and garlicky. Bought only two bunches, and now am trying to decide what cooking method will best vanquish my nostalgia. The pressure is high. I can’t screw it up. One time my mom bought me pickled ramps from a Russian food store and they were all wrong – too sweet, insufficiently garlicky and lacking the crucial soft crunch. The crushing disappointment in the face of my initial excitement was very, very painful.

So, either I do something with them that is utterly unrelated to any way I used to consume them in Russia, to prevent disappointed nostalgia – so, sauté them or something. By all accounts, that would be delicious.

OR… or, I try to pickle them myself. Harder, more time-consuming, and more prone to failure. However, the potential payout – resolving another craving – is so much higher.

So, kitchen gambling. Once I decide, will document the result.

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Salivating, sadly

What is the most difficult thing about immigration? The language barrier, feeling deaf-mute, misunderstood, and having to resort to gestures and dumb shrugging because you don’t speak English (/French/Mandarin/whatever)? The culture shock of being transported into a place with new rules, customs, and traditions while leaving your own behind? The financial burden of starting a new life from scratch while fruitlessly trying to find a job in your profession?

No.

The most difficult thing about immigration is the food nostalgia.

Nothing makes it quite clear that Dorothy isn’t in Kansas anymore like a lack of food you’re used to. Grocery stores are full of alien variation of food you thought you knew – strawberries, chicken, even ketchup taste mildly, oddly different. The water, too. Products that you considered a staple of your diet are nowhere to be found, and delicacies you once took for granted you would now give half a leg to just lick.

While in Canada we’re relatively lucky that there are thriving immigrant communities – and, by extension, not only specialty food stores, but racks of ‘ethnic’ food in regular grocery stores – nevertheless, everyone has that one thing that they’ve been craving for years.

For my mom, it’s plain сушки (suchki), small crunchy bread rings traditionally eaten with tea. The only kind she can find in specialty Russian stores in Toronto are the sweetened kind, which while an okay substitute, aren’t quite good enough.

For my dad, it’s сало (salo), which is cured, salted pork fat, eaten raw on dark bread (I know, I know… sounds disgusting. But it’s so delicious.)

For me, there are three things:

1. Chocolates with creamy lemon filling. I’ve sampled every single possible lemon-chocolate candy combination I’ve ever some across in Canada, and so far, no luck. Not even close.

2. Сливочное мороженное – Cream ice cream. Here in Canadaland, plain ice cream means vanilla ice cream. It’s the you-can’t-get-more-flavourless default flavour. However, what I’m craving is just plain cream ice cream. No vanilla. Just slightly sweetened cream. It’s so light and refreshing and delicious, that if I could I’d eat a tub a day and become rotund and happy and cry joyful tears as I shovel spoon after spoon into my ice-cream-longing face.

3. Pickled wild garlic stems. Also knows as ramps, ramsons, wild leek, bear’s garlic. What to say? They’re like thin asparagus stems, except salty and garlicky and indescribably delicious. I can’t even type this without my mouth crying a little. (Side note: why are there all of these ramps festivals in the States and not a single one in Ontario?? Not fair, not fair, not fair!) However, they’re also delicious fresh, or sautéed, or cooked in any and every which way. Mmmmm…

There was a fourth – Buns with apple jam filling – but it has been resolved successfully enough. Much like the lemon chocolate, I had tried innumerable pastry-apple jam combos, and the result wasn’t even vaguely what I was looking for. The jam was just too… apple-y. UNTIL. Until I accidentally stumbled on the secret when I sampled a clear pear jam at a fall fair. It tasted exactly like those buns. So, either my taste buds are playing havoc with me, or what I’ve always known as apple jam was really pear jam inside those buns. Regardless, using fresh croissants and pear jam, I can now cobble together a pretty close approximation, vanquishing the food nostalgia, for once.

Some six years ago, the first and last time I visited Russia since The Immigration, I basically lived off Russian chocolate, cream ice cream, buns with apple filling, red currants and pickled ramps for the entire two weeks. Oh, and maybe occasionally a beer and a skewer of shishkebabs. I don’t even think I’m exaggerating. The only three real meals I remember eating were ones we were served when visiting friends of my mom’s and my grandpa. Otherwise, I remember my grandma once trying to convince me to eat some soup she made and I was all like “Don’t you see I have a whole chocolate bar and a giant bunch of pickled wild garlic to eat?? I NEED TO EAT MORE OF IT BEFORE I LEAVE.”

*sigh* All this reminiscing about unattainable food made my soul sad. I’m going to go cry into a bag of ketchup chips.

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